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Eczema Association New Zealand

jules@phicosmeceutical.co.nz (Jules Macdonald) — Thu, 29 May 2025 22:31:01 GMT

Sensitive Skin? We've Got You.

We’re proud to share that several of our core products are now officially supported by the Eczema Association of New Zealand — a trusted voice for those living with sensitive and eczema-prone skin.

Supported Products:

Control – our calming, niacinamide-rich cream to strengthen skin barrier function
Luminous – gentle daily hydration cream with hyaluronic acid and antioxidants
Repair – soothing recovery cream for compromised, reactive skin
Cream Cleanse – ultra-mild, fragrance-free cleanser to protect your skin’s barrier
Rescue – our soothing balm packed with nourishing oils

These formulas are fragrance-free, non-irritating, and dermatologically designed to support the most sensitive skin.

Your skin deserves calm, comfort, and confidence — and we’re here to help every step of the way

Today We Talk About Essential Oils

Thu, 18 Aug 2022 23:39:34 GMT

When it comes to clean beauty, “natural” isn’t always best. Today we talk about Essential Oils.

Aromatherapy has been used for centuries. When inhaled, the scent molecules in essential oils travel from the olfactory nerves directly to the brain and especially impact the amygdala, the emotional centre of the brain. Essential oils, like tea tree oil, appear on the ingredient lists of many skin care products. However, did you know this group of ingredients can cause irritation!

What exactly are essential oils?

Essential oils are the volatile essences of plants that create unique, wafting fragrances. They can be extracted from any plant’s flowers, bark, stem, leaves, roots, and sometimes its fruits.

Why we don’t use essential oils in Phi Cosmeceutical

To understand why essential oils can be risky for skin, it helps to understand what they are and are not. Essential oils are highly concentrated chemical components that contain a plant’s essence or smell. They also require a high amount of plant material for processing, so they usually have much higher active ingredient concentrations than we’re used to.

Citrus oils, including lemon, orange and bergamot, are particularly dangerous, as they can be phototoxic, meaning they react to UV light and can cause skin to burn and blister. Clove, lemongrass, oregano, peppermint and jasmine oils are also known to cause irritation.

Overall, they’re not good for skin, because most of those compounds can also significantly irritate and damage skin. Some common reactions to essential oils include contact dermatitis, dryness, redness, and itchiness.

What about Tea Tree Oil?

Tea tree oil is the oil derived from the leaves of the Melaleuca alternifolia tree, native to New South Wales and Queensland, Australia. In its most natural form, tea tree oil is an essential oil so strong that it may be irritating to skin, so it's often diluted either with water or a carrier oil like coconut, grapeseed, or jojoba oils. Tea tree oil is often used to treat skin problems like acne, bacterial or fungal infections, and insect bites.

Most people can use topical products containing tea tree oil without problems, but some people may develop contact dermatitis (an allergic skin rash) or skin irritation on the parts of the body where the product was used. Avoid putting Tea tree oil on psoriasis and eczema. Tea tree oil should never be ingested.

Why collagen declines and how to support it naturally

Wed, 09 Jun 2021 04:01:52 GMT

Collagen

Collagen is a crucial element of your skin. This protein is responsible for giving your face that youthful bounce, and as it declines, fine lines appear. Collagen literally holds us together it makes up 30% of the body's protein and 70% of the skin's protein. The No. 1 cause of skin ageing is the loss of collagen. So how does it decline? There are a few reasons some are in your control and others are not.

Below are the factors that deplete your collagen levels, plus what you can do to support them naturally:

1. UV damage

There is a proven link between UV damage and loss of collagen. One study exposed collagen to UV light and found that there was a significant decrease in collagen structure afterward. UV rays damage collagen through various mechanisms, including DNA damage to the cells that make collagen as well as the production of free radicals that can damage collagen directly.

2. Age

Collagen production starts to dip in most people's bodies from the time they're in their late teens or early 20s and decreases about 1% a year. However, the exact age that this process starts is different for everyone. Regardless, the process is inevitable and, unfortunately, outside of your control. Our bodies always balance collagen production and degradation. When we are young, our bodies produce more collagen than we break down. That balance tips the wrong way with age since tissue regeneration decreases.

3. Smoking

You've likely heard by now that smoking is, uh, not good for you and causes premature aging. Well, the main reason it does so is because it directly damages collagen. In fact, smoking is the big one for collagen damage. Smoking decreases the amount of oxygen delivered to tissues. Therefore, tissue cannot regenerate and is more likely to become damaged and die. And that can lead to premature wrinkles.

4. Inflammation-triggering diets

Inflammation is one of the main enemies of any tissue, and the connective tissues fuelled by collagen are no exception. Inflammatory diets, which often include eating plans that are high in sugar, simple carbohydrates, and processed meats, activate the immune system and promote inflammation throughout the body. This may interfere with wound healing, including healing of environmentally damaged skin cells. Sugar, in particular, can be tough on collagen. High sugar levels can lead to hardening and fragmentation of collagen, weakening the skin foundation, and promoting premature skin aging.

5. Stress

Research shows that stress can spark inflammation and, again, that can lower your ability to naturally produce collagen. Stress also causes an increase in hormones like cortisol, which research has found can decrease the production of collagen. Less collagen is produced in high-stress states since more of the body's resources are used to combat stress and the inflammation it produces.

6. Genetics

Genetics are an important factor in determining how much collagen your body makes and breaks down. So, if your parents and grandparents had great-looking skin for years, the odds are high your skin will be similar as you age. Of course, you don't have control over this, which is why it is important to focus on things you can control like diet, stress management, skincare and UV protection.

How can you support it naturally?

You can't stop the natural drop in collagen production, but there are some things you can do to help promote healthy collagen levels in your body.

Take a collagen supplement.

Collagen supplements or more specifically, hydrolyzed collagen supplements have been shown to promote collagen production. These supplements are made of collagen peptides, which are short chains of amino acids that make up collagen but are small enough to be absorbed easily by your body. Hydrolyzed collagen can be absorbed as is and circulate throughout the body.

But collagen does more than promote your body's natural production, it also helps temper some of the causes of collagen's decline. Namely? Inflammation. Collagen's anti-inflammatory powers come from the role that it plays in our gut health. A healthy gut can reduce inflammation throughout the whole body. Poor gut health, on the other hand, leads to stomach lining permeability, where particles can leak into the rest of the body, which then triggers inflammation in the body. Collagen has been shown to support the gut's lining and has key amino acids for gut health. It contains glycine , an amino acid with proven anti-inflammatory and immune system-supporting effects.

Eat antioxidants, especially vitamin C and apply topically to the skin.

Antioxidants like vitamin C fight free radical damage, whether taken internally or applied to the skin, antioxidants can reduce collagen breakdown by decreasing the amount of free radicals in the skin. Vitamin C, in particular, has been found in research to support the production of collagen and to help manage its stability. Vitamin C is a necessary co-factor for the production of healthy collagen, and without it, new collagen cannot be properly made, as it promotes fibroblast proliferation, and fibroblasts are the cells that produce collagen. Phi Cosmeceutical products have strongly focused on ingredients which reduce inflammation, provide high antioxidants to target free radical damage.

Make good lifestyle choices, like wearing SPF and eating a healthy diet.

There are certain factors in collagen decline that you can't control, like your genes and your age. But there are some things you can do to slow the decline. Wearing sunscreen regularly is one of them. Sunscreen is one of the most important anti-aging skin care products, since UV exposure is a direct hit to collagen in your skin. Diet is also crucial. A healthy diet is necessary to provide the body with the necessary building blocks for optimal functioning.

The bottom line:

There's only so much you can do to slow the natural decline of collagen in your skin. But knowing the factors you can control, like avoiding UV damage and doing your best to support your collagen production by wearing SPF, using good active skincare and watching your diet can go a long way toward giving you healthy-looking, firm skin in the future.

Why Skincare during pregnancy important?

Mon, 15 Mar 2021 20:12:41 GMT

Pregnancy and skincare

Pregnancy can be a difficult time and a woman goes through many emotional and physical changes when pregnant. There are hormonal changes as the body gets ready to carry and deliver a baby. All this can take a toll on skin health. That is why it is extremely important to have a proper skin care routine in place if you are pregnant. You must also take care of your skin so that you do not face any post-delivery skin issues. But this is also the time to be careful of what you use. Many beauty products in the market may not be good for you and your baby. Therefore, you need to know what you can or cannot use when you are pregnant.

First and foremost, your pregnancy skin care routine must be safe for your baby.

Many health experts say that for healthy skin you must adopt a pregnancy-safe skin care routine. Pregnancy glow is totally a thing, but pregnancy can also cause skin issues. For many females they do not get the 'pregnancy glow' that is often talked about.

You, will, without doubt, experience many skin changes like dry and itchy skin rashes, acne, melasma (chloasma/pregnancy mask), skin redness and stretch marks during and after pregnancy. Hence, you need a new skin care routine. This is because the beauty regime that you followed till now may not be of any use right now. Your skin is very delicate when you are pregnant, and you need a skin care routine that is safe.

Here are a couple of tips to help get you through the most common issues.

Using a Tyrosinase inhibitor if you are showing any signs of Melasma or pigmentation (pregnancy mask)

Melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation characterized by brown or tan patches across the face. It's often tied to changes in hormones, the best thing you can do to prevent melasma from further developing is to wear a physical sunscreen every day and using an appropriate tyrosinase inhibitor serum to help deactivate melanin production and prevent further stimulation from sun and heat. Shielding skin from UV damage will help ensure melasma does not get any worse. Post pregnancy and breast feeding there are more stronger methods of treating melasma such as the use of hydroquinone, retinoids, laser and skin collagen induction but in some cases, it fades in post-partum months.

Targeting hydration and moisturizing

When you are in the first and second trimesters of your pregnancy, you also may experience hormonal acne. That is when your androgen levels are higher than normal. You also may notice that your skin is extra dry thanks to your changing hormones. This can be temporary, but lots of women notice permanent changes. Hydration, increasing skin immunity and barrier function is especially important to help manage these changes. Though they sound similar, moisturizing and hydrating are two different things when it comes to skin care. The main responsibility of a moisturizer is to set a barrier between the air and your skin to keep water from evaporating. Hydrators, on the other hand, are formulated to increase the water content of your skin. Ideally, you would want to apply a hydrator first to put moisture into your skin, followed by a moisturizer to seal the hydration throughout the day. Used together, they form the foundation of any good pregnancy-safe skin care routine.

Hero is packed with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate to help target these issues. Control as a moisturizer helps regulate oil secretion, calms and soothes skin assisting the prevention of acne breakouts with the Delisens peptide targeting and reducing neurogenic inflammation helping relieve that itchy, irritated feeling commonly experienced in pregnancy.

Exfoliating

In addition, it is important to gently exfoliate two to three times a week. This keeps surface debris from building up on the skin and causing breakouts. It also helps alleviate dryness, which can be exacerbated by dead skin not allowing products to penetrate properly. Polish helps gently remove impurities, while polishing away dead skin cells. Pink Australian Clay helps to restore and replenish skin and reducing inflammation and irritation from aggravating skin conditions such as acne. Pink Clay is rich in silica, which helps to improve skin elasticity and cell renewal.

Body cream

Stretch marks are also a common skin concern for pregnant women. They are caused by the skin stretching a lot in a short amount of time. But when you choose a moisturiser, go for one that is free of chemicals. A body butter cream that is safe and enriched with natural ingredients like cocoa butter and glycerin is a good choice. It will balance the moisture in your skin and give you softer and supple skin. This can also help deal with itchiness due to dry skin and help avoid stretch marks.

There are also a lot of common ingredients to avoid in your skincare routine when you are pregnant. The following can be harmful to a developing foetus: salicylic acid, L-Ascorbic Acid, Retin-A, retinol, retinyl palmitate, benzoyl peroxide, hydroquinone, and prescription acne medications. In addition, you should avoid professional treatments such as chemical peels with salicylic acid, Botox, and laser treatments. In the Phi Cosmeceutical range Rewind, C-Boost and Spotless should be avoided til breastfeeding has finished.

Phi has been designed to be simple but effective and the no fragrance added to our products makes it a perfect addition to use when pregnant due to the skin being more sensitive and delicate. Fragrance is one of the most common causes for skin reactions and irritation.

Encapsulated Retinol

Sun, 06 Sep 2020 23:54:18 GMT

Why use encapsulated retinol over non-encapsulated Retinol (Vitamin A)

Retinol is a very unstable molecule and it is biologically available instantly. An encapsulated form will release slower, have the same incredible benefits over a longer period and is gentle on the skin.

Encapsulated retinol is protected in a delivery system on a microscopic level so that it can remain stable for longer. This allows slow, gentle release of retinol, rather than a burst all at once, reducing skin irritation and redness.

This system also reduces oxidisation levels, which protects the serums potency levels allowing it to penetrate deeper and more effectively.

Vitamin A is included in an effective night-time routine, it is an important and powerful ingredient, retinoids are the answer to most skin concerns. Such as dullness, fine lines, pigmentation, vitamin A does it all.

Retinol, a form of retinoid is very potent and needs to be introduced to the skin slowly to allow it to acclimatize and not overwhelm the complexion. If using this form a daily SPF (sunscreen) is a MUST! It should not be mixed with Vitamin C and in most cases not to be used in conjunction with acne medication unless overseen by a dermatologist.

A big deterrent for clients using this form is the side effects, such as redness, peeling and tenderness because of its highly active nature. Although it is expected that the skin will go through these changes before the amazing effects of retinol begin to show on the surface, for some clients the side effects out-weigh the benefits which is why introducing encapsulated retinol, a gentler option is a game changer. It allows a more effective dosage of retinol its slow release nature ensures it gets to its destination, allowing it to target problem areas such as fine lines and wrinkles. For those new to retinol it reduces the risk of irritation and other complications. However, as with every active product, clients should undergo a thorough skin consultation beforehand to ensure retinol is the best step for their skin.

Pigmentation

Fri, 03 Jul 2020 03:37:45 GMT

Pigmentation is not an easy fix

Being one of the directors/Co-creators of Phi Cosmeceutical I thought I needed to show some of my own results with our products and how they have improved my skin. Here are some lovely before and after photos of me, excuse my photography, selfies are not my strong point and very rarely taken, these were done in my bathroom after I removed my makeup. I strongly believe in practising what you preach and for anyone that suffers from pigmentation it is not an easy fix.

For any of my clients or anyone wanting advice I always emphasize that skincare is the foundation for achieving results and getting your skin to function as it should. Results do not happen overnight it takes consistency, patience and good active ingredients that have scientific backing and every body's results are different. I was surprised by these as I did not realize how much my skin had improved over 3 1/2 months this is the length of time between these shots, and look at the sun spot that my finger is pointing at it has almost gone!

I have not had any skin treatments of any kind through this duration and purely only used our products Phi Cosmeceutical. I have been the trial dummy over this period for a pigmentation fighting serum every 3rd night and Vitamin A which I used every night and Spotless 3 x a week along with the rest of my Phi products. Thankfully trial has not gone pear shaped and we have confirmed and approved these products to go into production. Spotless is already available but I only started using it at the time of the first photo. My skin tone and complexion look better now in my mid 30s than what it did in my early 20s.

What is Oxidative Stress?

Thu, 11 Jun 2020 22:06:11 GMT

Why does an apple turn brown?

This is because vitamin C is an antioxidant that reacts with the very reactive oxygen-centred radicals, turning them into less reactive species. Hence, this reduces the amount of oxidative damage to the apple flesh. This is why the apple in the vitamin C solution does not turn brown and remains fresh looking.

Oxidative stress is something that can harm your skin, leading to the appearance of wrinkles, brown spots and inflammation. If you’re still unclear about how oxidative stress can affect your skin, I’ve got a great experiment that will show you exactly what it does. I’ll also share my expert skincare advice for preventing its negative impacts.

What is Oxidative Stress?

Most scientists agree that one of the primary reasons we age is because unstable electrons in molecules (called free radicals) attack healthy cells and change their composition. This then causes the cells to no longer function the way normal, younger cells do. Simply put, we age due to changed cells. This occurs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

Molecular biologists have identified three families of free radicals:

Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS)

Reactive Carbonyl Species (RCS)

Reactive Nitrogen Species (RNS)

How Do Free Radicals Affect the Skin?

Not all free radicals are created equal, and some affect the skin more than others.

ROS

The most damaging of these three free radicals is the Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). We are exposed to ROS from the air we breathe (oxygen), cigarette smoke, UV sunlight, stress, and smog. ROS causes oxidative stress by attacking all areas of cells, mutating DNA, and destroying the skin’s moisture barrier. It also damages the dermis layer of the skin, causes inflammation, and gives the skin wrinkles, brown spots, and a rough texture.

Topically applying skincare products that are formulated with antioxidants (along with eating fruits and vegetables that are high in antioxidants) can dramatically lessen this oxidative damage.

RCS

Reactive Carbonyl Species (RCS) is a carbon-based radical resulting from alcohol consumption and eating simple carbohydrates such as sugar, white flour, white rice, and pasta. These cause what is known as glycation, where a sugar-like coating forms over the skin’s proteins. This makes them hard and inflexible, resulting in loss of tone (sagging) as wells as deep wrinkles and fine lines.

RNS

Reactive Nitrogen Species (RNS) is a nitrogen-based radical found mainly in the environment. Common sources are parks, woods, farmlands, and gardens. RNS is given off by nitrogen-rich soil, like fertilizers, car exhaust, and the “exhalations” made by trees. These are change proteins in the skin, increasing inflammation and triggering cell death.

The Result:

As you can see there is a significant difference between the untreated side of the apple and the treated side of the apple. This shows how topical vitamin C can provide protection for the skin and may interfere with the natural oxidative processes that cause melanin to form. It demonstrates how vitamin C can slow down the visible appearance of skin damage that occurs from both inside and out. Pure & potent Phi Cosmeceutical’s C Boost protects your skin from free radical damage using the most powerful antioxidant benefit of fresh vitamin C. This pure L- Ascorbic Acid offers daily exfoliation and antioxidant benefits. Making C-Boost an absolute daily must have for all skin types.

Stress Directly Affects Our Appearance

Tue, 21 Apr 2020 22:09:44 GMT

When we get super stressed, our body takes a major hit

When we get super stressed, our body takes a major hit. It responds by releasing hormones that increase breathing and heart rates, and our muscles get tighter and ready to respond to the perceived danger. Stress hormones are designed to help you survive a life-threatening situation. Your blood pressure and energy levels go up and your body turns off functions that are not essential to your survival, like digestion and reproduction. It is times when stress piles on that our physiological response doesn’t turn off and stress levels stay elevated much longer than necessary. During these bouts, physical symptoms begin to manifest from the inside out.

Aside from the onset of resting bitch face, stress can do a number on our good looks. Studies show that long-term stress suppresses the immune system in all organs, including our skin, making us more susceptible to infections and even disrupting menstrual cycles, which can lead to hormonal breakouts.

When we’re stressed, our cortisol levels are disrupted, which can cause acne and exacerbate conditions like eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and atopic dermatitis. Our skin, hair and nails are of the lowest importance to our survival. At times of stress, valuable vitamins and minerals are prioritized for our body’s vital metabolic processes and the production of stress hormones. Skin is an external barometer of what is happening internally, and we often see dull skin at times of fatigue and stress. A dull complexion is the least of our worries we can also expect more lines and wrinkles, too. Consistently elevated levels of cortisol is catabolic to the body, meaning we are breaking down and failing to repair tissues, which leads to decreased collagen and elastin production.

Whether it’s meditation or micro-needling and skincare, turning off stress and undoing the damage that’s been done are steps one and two for getting our bodies back on track. The most important thing is to start with the intention to care for yourself. Phi Cosmeceutical suggests bringing your skin routine back to the basics and eliminating any products with added fragrance, colours or dyes. Sometimes products can begin to irritate your skin during times of stress. We recommend adding a moisturizer that is not too heavy or rich which will restore the barrier function of your skin. All Phi moisturizers are an excellent choice to bring back balance as we have added a complex peptide to each which help to reduce neurogenic irritation to help calm and soothe your skin.

According to Haemin Sunim, Buddhist teacher and author of the mindfulness guide. If you only have a few seconds, take a deep breath and smile. If you only have 10 minutes, walk around and stretch. With half an hour, you can take time to do things you like, listen to your favourite songs, have a conversation with a loved one, or just give yourself time to relax. This is more important than ever at this crazy time we are all experiencing.

Stay safe and stay home

Much love from Phi

Autumn Skin

Mon, 09 Mar 2020 20:01:32 GMT

Most commonly seen in the autumn months is the impairment and fragility of the skin barrier which can manifest as symptoms of dryness, sensitivity and a lack lustre look. Most commonly seen in the autumn months is the impairment and fragility of the skin barrier which can manifest as symptoms of dryness, sensitivity and a lack lustre look.

Since a hot summer has bestowed its mark upon our face, pigmentation from excessive tanning, travel-induced dehydration, and inflammation from one too many mojitos and the sudden plummeting of temperature can, quite drastically, impact the way our skin performs, looks and feels.

Most commonly seen in the autumn months is the impairment and fragility of the skin barrier which can manifest as symptoms of dryness, sensitivity and a lack lustre look. The skins barrier is like a raincoat designed to keep things from reaching your body. When temperatures suddenly change and in windy and cold weather, our barriers become damaged and let pollution and other external aggravators deeper into the skin, causing inflammation, sensitivity and redness. So how do we reinvent our routines to cater to this change in environment? The key rule is to keep things simple: In the summer, we tend to use less product because we naturally have a healthy glow. Avoid overwhelming skin and keep your routine as simple as possible.

Cleansing consistently is key

It is important to keep skin clean and free of accumulated dirt, cleansing morning and night is one element of your routine that doesn’t need to be reinvented. Skin’s natural cell turnover process creates debris on the upper layers which need to be removed before applying any other products, as this can affect the efficacy of future key ingredients penetrating the skin. Plus the mechanical action of cleansing also increases the blood flow and aids elimination of toxins.

Hydrate the easy way

Exposure to central heating and harsh, bracing winds equally can lead to skin that really isn’t happy. For that, hydration can help. Hyaluronic acid is a key player to healthy, plump skin its effects are often compared to turning a raisin into a grape when increasing water content. Our Hero serum contains hyaluronic acid along with a combination of peptides covers your skins daily hydration needs.

Rebuild your barrier with moisturiser

Moisturizers will most certainly be beneficial for repairing your skin’s moisture barrier when it’s damaged, but it’s important that you look for specific ingredients that mimic the natural lipids found in your skin. Just because a moisturizer feels rich and greasy on the skin doesn’t necessarily mean that it will offer repair. Ingredients such as Niacinamide, Jojoba oil, Shea butter and Vitamin E will all help to rebuild a damaged skin barrier, these ingredients are all found in Phi Cosmeceutical moisturizers.

Autumn exfoliation 101

Post-summer skin may need a peel, a treatment that utilises a combination of exfoliating acids to keep it looking fresh and radiant. A blend of AHA’s and BHA’s like lactic and salicylic acid will help to dissolve the glue that holds skin-dulling dead skin cells on skin's surface.

Scrubs can create micro tears in the skin that can further impair the skin barrier and create more inflammation, so do take care to not over exfoliate 2-3 x a week is plenty. Lactic acid is a great chemical exfoliant as it hydrates at the same time as exfoliating. Spotless contains lactic alongside salicylic to help lift pigmentation and revive a glow that may have been lost in the seasonal switch.

Start using retinol

While a lack of sun might not be good news for your spirit, it is good news for your face. Retinol (or vitamin A) makes the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s best used in the evening and, in summer, should be used unfailingly with an SPF. It is fantastic at increasing cell turnover, regulating oil flow and improving the appearance of pigmentation. Start slow to allow your skin to build up a tolerance and work up to using every night.

Wear SPF all year round

The biggest mistake you can make is not wearing SPF longer than summer. Our skin can be damaged by UV rays all year round so it’s one product that you never need swap out.

Eat seasonally

Treating the outside of skin is all very well, but it’s important to complement an autumnal skin routine with a nutritional and seasonal diet. Autumn is the harvest season and we are incredibly lucky to have fresh, nutrient rich produce available, so make the most of it. Eat foods that are rich in beta-carotene to aid cell renewal, aid normal skin function and collagen production.

Also worth ingesting is a great probiotic, to improve gut health for clearer skin, and an omega supplement to wrap cells and keep moisture locked in.

COSMECEUTICALS IN CLINICAL PRACTICE

Mon, 17 Feb 2020 03:06:56 GMT

Dr Ken Macdonald, Dermatologist

Dr Ken Macdonald qualified in medicine and surgery at Edinburgh Medical School and has post graduate training in dermatology and dermatologic surgery. Qualifications MB.ChB (Edin), FRACP, FRCP (UK), FNZDSI. He is a past president of the NZ Dermatological Society and previous clinical director of the Christchurch Department of Dermatology; an overseas Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology and American Society for Dermatologic Surgery. A practicing member of the NZ Cosmetic Dermatologic Surgery Group he has interests including skin cancer management, skin laser surgery, liposuction and cosmetic facial surgery under advanced local anaesthesia and skincare.

Cosmeceuticals combine a cosmetic formulation with bioactive ingredients designed to benefit skin. These are not pharmaceuticals (medicines) but when formulated properly and applied to the skin, they do improve skin health and quality.
Dr Ken Macdonald, specialist dermatologist, endorses the benefits of the PHI Cosmeceutical products in the maintenance and improvement of a healthy skin and in the management of skin ageing and sun damage. He notes that here is an ever-increasing scientific literature now supporting the efficacy of bioactive substances which can be safely applied to skin. There is not, however, the same level of clinical trial testing that is required for a medication. In the case of PHI Cosmeceutical however quality control is assured through full accreditation of each stage of the manufacturing process.

The PHI Cosmeceutical products are formulated in Christchurch and are designed for New Zealand conditions and skin types. Their bioactive ingredients depend on a suitable delivery system, such as a carefully formulated emulsion (cream) or serum in order to reach the target cells and receptors. Bioactives include molecules such as antioxidants, peptides, retinoids and vitamins.

Antioxidants: These act to reduce oxidative stress damage to DNA and cellular structures as well as protecting ‘natural’ additives such as plant extracts from deteriorating. Ultra-potent antioxidants also support the function of the body’s own antioxidants (for example Vitamin E) and can increase the activity of these essential substances. The main action, however of additional topical antioxidants is to remove or neutralise the excess of active oxygen and nitrogen species which accumulate in skin damaged by oxidative stress from ultraviolet and other radiation and polluting chemicals. These antioxidants prevent free radicals from forming chain reactions that have the ability to damage cells and DNA. In PHI Cosmeceutical, the potent antioxidants chosen (tocopherol acetate and dimethylmethoxy chromanol) are known to be active at the cellular level.

Peptides: These are small molecules which form the structure of many compounds such as collagen and even very active moieties like botulinum toxin (Botox™). Many peptides are growth factors (not growth hormones) and assist the normal development of skin and the skin barrier function. The PHI Cosmeceutical peptides include snap-8™ (acetyl octapeptide-3), Delisens™ (hexapeptide-49) and Juveleven™ (acetyl heptapeptide-51). These are small molecules which are readily incorporated into the skin through topical application and have actions such as decreasing neuronal excitability and reducing skin sensitivity and pruritus (itch).

Retinoids: Retinoids have a fundamental action on epidermal and dermal cell development and functionality via the retinoid receptors. The active molecule is retinoic acid which is reached through various pathways via retinol (Vitamin A). In PHI Cosmeceutical the reservoir molecule (retinol palmitate) is used to deliver a constant stream of active retinoids and this prevents undue irritation which can be an issue with higher concentrations of retinoic acid accumulating in the skin.

Vitamins: Many vitamins are involved in skin health including Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and Vitamin A (retinol). In PHI Cosmeceutical, the backbone of therapy is through the utilisation of Vitamin B3 (niacinamide/nicotinamide). This is a critical molecule in the coordination of beneficial and non-irritant cutaneous treatment. Niacinamide reduces irritation and redness and enables better function of other bioactive ingredients. It is a non-irritating exfoliant with a low molecular weight and it relatively penetrates the strata collumen (skin surface). It is also the bedrock of cellular energy and activity as NAD and NADH which are cofactors central to metabolism.

SKINCARE FOR MEN

Tue, 04 Feb 2020 01:21:13 GMT

SKINCARE FOR MEN

IF YOU’RE NOT TAKING CARE OF YOUR FACE IT DOESN’T MATTER HOW NICE YOUR CLOTHES ARE

When it comes to staying healthy, men love to talk about fitness and eating right. Too often, however, men neglect taking care of a specific body part that is essential to good health: our skin.

The skin is our largest organ and performs many functions important to good health beyond just making us look good. Very simply, our skin is our first line of defence. It serves as a barrier between our bodies and the outside world. It protects us from germs, bacteria and the harmful effects of UV rays. Healthy skin also regulates body temperature and helps filter out toxins.

SO WHY DON’T MEN TALK MORE ABOUT SKINCARE?

Skincare frequently gets lumped into the “beauty” category and, as a result, becomes a topic of only feminine concern. This doesn’t mean you need a bunch of pink and flowery products in your bathroom. Because let’s face it, if these products are going to sit in your bathrooms or on your dressers, and you are expected to use them every day, then you want them to look good. Phi Cosmeceutical is perfect for men, it’s a simple, no fuss skincare range which we have kept simple packaging to appeal to all genders along with no fragrance added so there is no smelling feminine.

Caring for skin is crucial to everyone’s health not just women. Healthy skin not only looks good and stays looking good longer, but it also helps keep us free of diseases and infections. Bad skincare habits can lead to acne, sores, rashes, and wrinkles. All of these issues affect our appearance and how we feel about our appearance. Feeling confident in how we look is a critical part of achieving great personal style.

Hydration

Thu, 26 Sep 2019 03:37:54 GMT

Why hydration is so important and why it's absence could be contributing to your breakouts.

Why hydration is so important and why it's absence could be contributing to your breakouts:

Hydration is the number one missed step I see in skin care routines, especially routines that are supposed to be targeting acne. Dehydrated skin contributes to the vast majority of skin problems and for some, is a major trigger of acne! It is certainly a major cause of congestion and blackheads. Without hydration, you’ll never have a balanced skin.

Why water, aka hydration is so important for people with acne prone skin…

1) Balance and why you may have oily skin!

To be healthy, glowing, and radiant, our skin needs a balance of water (inside the skin) and oil (just outside the skin). When we don’t have enough water, our skin often reacts by pumping out more oil to make up for the lack of water. Oil acts as a protective layer for the skin, and if the skin isn’t able to hold on to enough water, our skin thinks “uh oh! Time to fix up that barrier!” cue the flood of oil!

2) Congestion, blackheads, and breakouts!

The second reason that hydration is important, especially for acne prone skin is that for our pores to remain clear, oil needs to pass through them (on the way to the surface of the skin) without being held up or slowed down by anything. When our skin is dehydrated, our pores aren’t well lubricated. Oil can’t pass through them as easily as we would like. When the oil is slowed down (or gets caught up by dead skin cells that haven’t been flushed from our pores), it runs the risk of drying up. This creates a hard plug or blockage inside the pore.

Telltale signs that your skin needs topical hydration:

Flaky skin
Dry Skin
Oily Skin – Remember what I said about our skin pumping out more oil to make up for the lack of water? If your skin is oily, hydration is an absolute MUST to slow down the oil slick.
Oily yet dry skin – This often feels like the skin is a bit tight yet it’s oily to the touch. It can show up as skin that’s oily yet it also has flaky patches. This is especially noticeable after washing your face or applying makeup.
Congestion – Clogged pores, enlarged pores or pores that appear larger because they have a build up of oil/dirt/debris in them.
Acne – Where congestion, oil, dry skin, or flakes are, acne isn’t far behind.
Skin that doesn’t feel moisturized - no matter how much moisturizer you use
Skin that absorbs moisturizer quickly yet - still feels like it could use another big helping of moisturizer later in the day (or night)
Your skin doesn’t feel plump or appears dull - When our skin is well hydrated, it has a smooth, almost dewy appearance. It looks full (not shallow), supple, and bounces back easily when touched. If your skin doesn’t feel smooth, there’s a good chance it’s dehydrated.

Just about everyone in Canterbury suffers from dehydration due to the dry climate here so having a serum like Hero that is packed full of hydration can really make a difference and be the key step you are missing to get the best out of your skin.

Why we have minimal packaging

Sun, 18 Aug 2019 22:32:52 GMT

We care about the environment

Nearly 4 billion trees or 35 percent of the total trees cut around the world are used in paper industries on every continent. That’s a lot of trees!

We are constantly over stimulated with different packaging shouting out loud on shelves trying to grab our attention. When consumers purchase goods often packaging is quickly discarded into the bin, this seems a waste of our precious resources! We need to reduce our ecological footprint of all the stages in the product's life-cycle. It helps both the producer and the consumer reduce their environmental impact.

When you purchase your product online with us, we use old boxes which we have recycled to safely courier your precious skincare to you.

We're constantly trying to see how we can make our production process more sustainable, and even though we might not be fully there yet, we are constantly trying to improve. We are conscious about the amount of waste we throw away and how much of it can be reused.

Why Corneotherapy is important

Tue, 09 Jul 2019 22:37:40 GMT

The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization of the outer most layer of the epidermis.

The stratum corneum serves an essential role in the skin's barrier function. The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment.

Understanding the structure and function of the stratum corneum is vital because it is the key to having skin that is healthy and beautiful. When the outer layer of skin is healthy, it appears smooth, soft, refined, hydrated, and plump. Nourishing your skin’s surface also ensures that the lower layers of skin can better hold onto the vital substances needed to maintain a youthful appearance. We have dedicated Phi to supporting corneotherapy. Corneotherapy aims at the recovery of the stratum corneum and above all, it improves the function of the skin barrier and subsequently also the overall balance of the skin, leaving you with beautiful glowing skin.

Our products are aimed at hydration, protection and supporting the natural function of the skin by providing ingredients that are biomimetic. This means that the products are designed to mimic the natural processes occurring on the surface of the skin to achieve optimal results. We have formulated skin care products that complement the skins own system. Our product line has been created based on the scientific understanding that the skin, our largest organ, requires an environment that is balancing and supportive with effective and proven active ingredients derived from nature. Our products are designed to create an environment where they can function to the optimal level on every skin condition and concern.

DOs and DON’Ts for Taking the Best Care of Skin’s Surface

We cannot stress enough how important it is to give your skin’s surface the T.L.C. it needs to be healthy. Follow these guidelines to ensure you’re taking the best possible care of your skin.

DON’T use drying cleansers, including bar soaps, which remove the essential moisturizing and nourishing substances that uphold your skin’s surface layer integrity.

DO make sure your entire skincare routine is fragrance free. Fragrance compromises skin’s surface.

DON’T use abrasive scrubs because they can cause micro-tears in skin, and avoid products that contain harsh ingredients, like alcohol (often listed as SD or denatured) or essential oils (such as lavender or geranium).

DO apply SPF 30 (or greater) daily! This is one of the most powerful ways to shield your skin’s barrier.

DON’T rinse with water that is too hot or too cold and don’t soak in the tub until your skin “prunes” (that can weaken skin).

DO enrich the outer layer of skin with skin-replenishing ingredients, such as ceramides, antioxidants and omega fatty acids which are all found in Phi moisturizers

If you have any concerns or questions about your skin, Contact us

Vitamin A the master of anti ageing and skin renewal

Thu, 14 Feb 2019 00:00:00 GMT

Aging skin is a direct result of sun-induced vitamin A deficiency.

The most common skincare problem in men and woman is sun-damage, and the long term effects of sun exposure are adverse. New Zealand has one of the harshest sun exposures in the world and we are at the forefront for detrimental skincancers such as melanoma, SCC etc making Vitamin A a key ingredient that should be in every kiwi's skincare. The reason Vitamin A is so important, It encourages healthy skin cell production, stimulates fibroblasts the cells responsible for developing tissue that keeps skin firm and healthy in the deep layers of your skin. It assists in reducing the likelihood of the development of potential skin cancers, supports the skins immune system and helps prevent breakouts. Increases the skins natural moisturizing factor and gives it a radiant glow. Vitamin A combined with other essential nutrients like antioxidants, peptides using the correct delivery system, the long term enhancement of the skin becomes clearly visible.

Why it is important to exfoliate the skin.

Fri, 08 Feb 2019 00:00:00 GMT

As we age, the rate of skin cell turnover slows, meaning the body takes longer to shed old skin cells and generate new ones.

The production of collagen a protein crucial to skin’s firmness and elasticity also decreases with age, resulting in progressively-thinning, structurally-weakened skin. Radiance diminishes as skin shows signs of aging. That’s because, over time, cell turnover rate slows down and dead skin cells build up, which creates the appearance of rough, dry skin and enlarged pores. Exfoliating helps slough away dirt and dead skin cells helps eliminate dullness, roughness and dryness conditions that amplify the appearance of lines, wrinkles and uneven pigmentation and leaves you with a smooth, radiant complexion. Removing old skin cells helps your skincare products work better because your cleansers, moisturizers and hydrating serums are able to penetrate more deeply and do their jobs more effectively when skin is freshly exfoliated. And in the case of acne-prone skin, removing cell buildup on the skin’s outermost layer helps clear clogged pores that can otherwise lead to breakouts on the face, neck, chest and back. Moderation is key when it comes to exfoliation do not over do it frequent or harsh scrubbing, scraping or peeling can irritate the skin and damage the protective skin barrier, which can lead to more damage. The golden ratio for exfoliating is less is more, exfoliating 2-3 times per week is sufficient.

Why use a Tyrosinase Inhibitor?

Fri, 01 Feb 2019 00:00:00 GMT

Tyrosinase Inhibitors work by blocking or sedating the production of melanin which causes your skin to have dark spots.

We can protect our cells from being damaged and resulting in uneven skin tone with SPF and skincare products that contain Tyrosinase Inhibitor ingredients. Tyrosinase Inhibitors will prevent the enzyme Tyrosinase from over-oxidizing Tyrosine so there is no overproduction of pigment in the skin. Tyrosinase Inhibitors are not only for those who have Hyperpigmentation, but also for clients that have healthy, even skin. Prevention is key You might have a beautiful, even skin tone now, but we want to make sure it stays that way. Using a Tyrosinase Inhibitor will help protect your skin and prevent you from forming hyperpigmentation and oftentimes hyperpigmentation is lying underneath the skin and will surface later-on in life. You can prevent this hyperpigmentation from happening or from surfacing altogether. Tyrosinase Inhibitors will correct hyperpigmentation and prevent it from forming but it does require continued use. Our skin has a memory and once it’s been damaged hyperpigmentation can come back, especially if the cells are left unprotected.

Why use active skincare over supermarket and department store skincare?

Thu, 31 Jan 2019 00:00:00 GMT

One of the big differences between medical-grade products and those found over the counter, is the quality and quantity of the ingredients used in each formula.

The percentage or dosage of each ingredient is allowed to be higher than regular over the counter products. For example, some Vitamin C products found at a department store may claim to have a high percentage of Vitamin C, but chances are it’s not the stable form used in physician-dispensed products and therefore, the full strength is lost before it even penetrates the skin. A more stable form and a higher concentration will bring the best results, and this can only be present in medical-grade products. When it comes to skincare the old saying “you get what you pay for” is absolutely true. Chances are when you find a skincare product claiming to make you look 20 years younger overnight for less than $10; it’s probably not going to work. And why is that? Well to begin, finding the right ingredients takes time and a lot of research. Sometimes the ingredients have to be harvested from all around the world and sometimes the best ingredients have to be developed by scientists and skincare professionals. over the counter products are not held to a certain standard that medical-grade products are. Medical-grade products are subjected to rigorous and extensive testing and clinical studies. Most over the counter skincare brands have no clinical studies or research behind it at all!